McKinnon's Louisiane Restaurant has been in Atlanta for almost thirty years, imagine thirty years! - when the words "ethnic food" said in polite Atlanta company resulted in awkward silence and a change of subject. But we've come a long way baby! And McKinnon's has stood the rest of time.

The story of the restaurant's origin has become the stuff of local legend. At the age of 35, Billy McKinnon quit his day job as a stockbroker to pursue his first true love - cooking. He apprenticed at the famous Galatoire's in New Orleans, before moving to Atlanta in 1972 to open McKinnon's, Talk about changing career paths!

Located in a sea of "Hipper than Thou" . Buckhead eateries in a rather plain strip` center at the corner of Maple and Piedmont, McKinnon's is refreshing in its complete lack of pretense. The room is cozy and unaffected a impeccably clean. Though Mr. McKinnon has manned the door of his establishment since 1972 he has recently turned over the ownership to his very capable assistant, Aziz Mehran. In the context of a cuisine chat embraces so many different cultures, it ill' somehow appropriate than Billy McKinnon has chosen immigrant as his protégé.

He could not have chosen better. Aziz Mehram, who has managed the place since 1980, is a gracious and hospitable host with an air of impenetrable calm. In a business characterized by never ending work, Mr. Mehram always seems as if he just returned from a restful beach vacation. But do not mistake calm for complacency. Mr. Mehram is articulate and well acquainted with the subtle distinctions of New Orleans cuisine and culture Under his guidance, the restaurant, runs like a clock. The service is pleasant, efficient, and unassuming. And the food is outstanding.

When last I saw Mr. Mehram he was enjoying one of his favorite dishes on the menu -- fried flounder - before the Friday evening rush. The fish, which is fried whole, makes a spectacular presentation. And it tastes as good as it looks. Even if you avoid fried food, it's worth making an exception for this dish. The lean, dry flesh Flounder is a well loved New Orleans fish served, a thousand different ways. In this case, .Cajun fried fish, French hollandaise and Japanese pickled ginger are perfectly married in typical Creole fashion.

The appetizer platter for a minimum of two is a good idea for variety. Our platter included a delicious "off menu" crawfish preparation along with the outstanding tab Claws Piquante and Shrimp Cocktail Remoulade both with sauces that are creamy without being heavy. The gumbo is typically flavorful without being over burdened with roux or salt. New Orleans cuisine is one that can tend to the heavy, but there is light and intelligent hand at work in the kitchen at McKinnon's.

Though they do a wonderful filet mignon and offer several chicken dishes, McKinnon's is primarily a fish joint. If you're a first timer who loves seafood, try the mixed grill, usually tuna, grouper, and amberjack. They're prepared in three distinct ways, each one delicious, so you can decide what you prefer for next time. If you have the amberjack entree, have it with the hot peppered shrimp for a little extra and get a taste of another excellent seafood entree. And of course don't forget Aziz's favorite - Fried Flounder. Top off the whole meal with some chicory laced coffee and traditional Creole Bread Pudding and you'll go home smiling.

The Louisiana Grill got high marks - a piece of salmon grilled Cajun style with grits and mixed vegetables. Make sure you get a side of the chef s own Creole Cocktail Sauce - a delicious creamy crawfish concoction that tastes as delicious by itself as it does with any of the main dishes that we tried. The traditional Cajun blackened redfish special was also delicious. Blackened here, meaning rubbed with spices and grilled to perfection, not burned to a cinder as in many misguided local restaurants. Shrimp prepared in the same way (The Canal Street) are equally delicious and there are plenty of traditional hearty fried fish dishes if you are so inclined.

It is telling that so many Creole dishes are made in one pot. A myriad of different people come together in one place, each adding new layers of flavor and complexity to the pot both literally and figuratively. It is hard not to think of the much quoted "melting pot" metaphor for American culture. Though currently unfashionable as a metaphor for American culture, the "melting pot" as an American ideal shows us at our best. The exciting mix that makes up the unique culture of food in New Orleans is a perfect example of America at its best.

From the Spring Issue of Season

McKinnon's Louisiane Restaurant will celebrate more than Mardi Gras this year. Come April, the Buckhead institution rings in its 30th anniversary - one of only a handful of Atlanta restaurants to boast such a feat.

The man behind the success is Billy McKinnon. A "hobby" cook since college, McKinnon spent seven years as a stockbroker before Cajun fever struck. He headed to New Orleans to sharpen his culinary skills, apprenticing at the hallowed Galatoire's restaurant, still a staple for old-line natives.

Back home, he went to work, introducing Atlanta to some "new" cuisine: delicious Louisiana seafood dishes reflecting the refined cooking of Creole New Orleans and the more pungent, highly seasoned foods of the Cajun bayou McKinnon's quickly became a Destination restaurant for such famous locals as Dick Rich, Ivan Allen, Sam Massell and the late Senator Paul Coverdell. Billy greeted his customers as they walked in the door.

Today, McKinnon's kitchen remains the backbone of the restaurant, with an elegant main dining room and casual grill room to enjoy the spicy specialties and Southern hospitality.

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